The
Chrysanthemum
brooch which is a reflection of the consummate skill of the master designer of
Tiffany's at the turn of the 20th century, Paulding Farnham, demonstrates the
creative use of freshwater Mississippi pearls, in combination with diamonds,
gold and platinum. In the early 1900s George Frederick Kunz, Tiffany &
Company's world renowned geologist and gemologist, discovered an abundance of
freshwater pearls in the Mississippi River valley. Most of these pearls were
elongated in shape and were known as "dogtooth" pearls. The predominant color of
these pearls was pink.
The designing of the Chrysanthemum brooch was an ingenious attempt by
Paulding Farnham to put the abundant supplies of "dogtooth" pearls into some
form of creative use. The "dogtooth" pearls were drilled and mounted on gold
spikes radiating from the center, in almost concentric whorls, the innermost
whorl containing the shortest pearls, and the length of the pearls increasing
gradually towards the outermost whorl. The shape of the pearls almost resembles
the shape of the "ray florets" of the Chrysanthemum "flower." It is important to
remember that contrary to popular belief the Chrysanthemum "flower" is not
actually a flower but an inflorescence known as the head or capitulum, made up
of an aggregate of florets known as "ray florets" and "disc florets." The
particular variety of Chrysanthemum used by Paulding Farnham as his model in
designing this brooch, consisted of a predominance of ray florets, with the disc
florets almost hidden in the center. The stem and two serrated leaves of the
Chrysanthemum bloom, is made of gold and platinum and studded with sparkling
diamonds.
An inscription on the brooch "L.R. Dec 04" reveals that the brooch belonged
to the internationally renowned singer and comic opera star, Lillian Russell
(1861-1922), who was reported to have had a close romantic relationship with the
bachelor millionaire Diamond Jim Brady, well known for his penchant in
collecting jewels, especially diamonds. Diamond Jim Brady was known to have
showered Lillian Russell with extravagant gifts of diamonds and gemstones, and
perhaps the Chrysanthemum brooch might have been one such gift, symbolizing
happiness and amiability. However, Tiffany's website reveals that the brooch was
presented to the comic opera star Lillian Russell in 1904, but does not specify
the donor. The text of this web article may also imply that the brooch was a
gift by the company Tiffany & Co. to the renowned singer and star. The month
December 04, undoubtedly refers to the month and year the brooch was designed
and presented to the famed star.
