The History of the Chrysanthemum Brooch

The Chrysanthemum brooch which is a reflection of the consummate skill of the master designer of Tiffany's at the turn of the 20th century, Paulding Farnham, demonstrates the creative use of freshwater Mississippi pearls, in combination with diamonds, gold and platinum. In the early 1900s George Frederick Kunz, Tiffany & Company's world renowned geologist and gemologist, discovered an abundance of freshwater pearls in the Mississippi River valley. Most of these pearls were elongated in shape and were known as "dogtooth" pearls. The predominant color of these pearls was pink.

The designing of the Chrysanthemum brooch was an ingenious attempt by Paulding Farnham to put the abundant supplies of "dogtooth" pearls into some form of creative use. The "dogtooth" pearls were drilled and mounted on gold spikes radiating from the center, in almost concentric whorls, the innermost whorl containing the shortest pearls, and the length of the pearls increasing gradually towards the outermost whorl. The shape of the pearls almost resembles the shape of the "ray florets" of the Chrysanthemum "flower." It is important to remember that contrary to popular belief the Chrysanthemum "flower" is not actually a flower but an inflorescence known as the head or capitulum, made up of an aggregate of florets known as "ray florets" and "disc florets." The particular variety of Chrysanthemum used by Paulding Farnham as his model in designing this brooch, consisted of a predominance of ray florets, with the disc florets almost hidden in the center. The stem and two serrated leaves of the Chrysanthemum bloom, is made of gold and platinum and studded with sparkling diamonds.
An inscription on the brooch "L.R. Dec 04" reveals that the brooch belonged to the internationally renowned singer and comic opera star, Lillian Russell (1861-1922), who was reported to have had a close romantic relationship with the bachelor millionaire Diamond Jim Brady, well known for his penchant in collecting jewels, especially diamonds. Diamond Jim Brady was known to have showered Lillian Russell with extravagant gifts of diamonds and gemstones, and perhaps the Chrysanthemum brooch might have been one such gift, symbolizing happiness and amiability. However, Tiffany's website reveals that the brooch was presented to the comic opera star Lillian Russell in 1904, but does not specify the donor. The text of this web article may also imply that the brooch was a gift by the company Tiffany & Co. to the renowned singer and star. The month December 04, undoubtedly refers to the month and year the brooch was designed and presented to the famed star.